My story. I’ve been crafting leather goods for more than two years. Lately, more customers have asked for my handmade camera bags—but made with “vegan leather.” Their reasons are kind and sincere: more humane, better for the environment. As a craftsman, I’ll always listen and try to meet requests. But I also have a responsibility to explain what I’ve learned at the bench and from credible research. Is vegan leather truly humane and planet-friendly? Why doesn’t choosing it actually spare animals? And how have synthetic-leather marketers blurred definitions to steer consumers?
1) What “vegan leather” usually is
Most so-called vegan leather today is simply plastic-based—primarily polyurethane (PU), with polyvinyl chloride (PVC) also used. PU is the clear market leader, accounting for ~57% of global synthetic leather revenue in 2024 (Grand View Research). Even many “plant-based” options (pineapple, apple, cactus, mushroom) use plastic coatings or binders to achieve strength and water resistance. Independent lab work comparing leather alternatives finds several trendy materials remain PU-coated textiles and often underperform real leather mechanically (MDPI). So, “vegan leather” is usually a plastic with a story, not a purely plant-derived or circular material.
2) Good intentions, wrong lever: hides are by-products
A common belief is that buying vegan leather reduces the number of animals slaughtered. But hide supply tracks meat production—it doesn’t drive it. FAO modeling explicitly links hides and skins to meat production; hides are by-products of the meat and dairy chains that become available when animals are slaughtered for food (FAO). In practice, refusing leather does not stop the animal from entering the food chain. It can, however, increase waste if those hides aren’t used. Turning a by-product into a long-lived good is typically better than disposing of it.
3) Planet reality check: plastics vs. leather
Microplastics and additives Synthetic textiles are a major pathway for microplastics to reach oceans—200,000–500,000 tonnes per year globally (European Environment Agency). PVC raises additional concerns about additives and microparticle releases (ECHA).
End-of-life and incineration When plastics are burned in mixed waste, dioxins can form—highly toxic compounds highlighted by the U.S. EPA (even backyard burning can out-pollute industrial incinerators) (US EPA).
Recycling reality Synthetic leather is typically a multi-layer composite (fabric + adhesives + PU/PVC coating). Industry sources describe long-standing challenges recycling these composites because strong interlayer bonding makes separation difficult (new single-polymer systems exist but are not the norm) (SpecialChem).
Durability, repair, and waste Many PU/PVC items look great initially but crack, peel, and stiffen after limited use, shortening their service life. Independent testing shows several “next-gen” alternatives lag leather on abrasion and mechanical strength—key predictors of real-world longevity (MDPI). By contrast, well-made leather can be repaired (re-stitched, re-dyed, re-edged) and used for decades. A quick cost-per-wear check: a $120 PU bag lasting 2 years at 400 uses ≈ $0.30/use. A $300 leather bag lasting 10 years at 1,500 uses ≈ $0.20/use.
Biodegradation New research finds that chrome-free (e.g., vegetable-tanned) leather biodegrades faster and to a higher degree than chrome-tanned leather—and far more than leather-like synthetics, which show minimal biodegradation (SpringerOpen).
Bottom line:replacing animal hides with fossil-based plastics doesn’t automatically help the planet. Using a by-product for durable goods, then maintaining and repairing them, often reduces impact.
4) Why don’t marketers just call it “fake leather”?
Because “fake leather” doesn’t sell. “Vegan leather” sounds ethical and modern, and—crucially—labeling rules are uneven. In the EU, outside of specific footwear rules, the use of the term “leather” isn’t uniformly regulated at the EU level, creating a legal vacuum that some countries have addressed (European Parliament). Consumer authorities have also started pushing back on simplified green claims. In 2022, the Norwegian and Dutch authorities warned brands that using Higg MSI material scores in consumer marketing could be misleading without proper context and evidence; several brands paused such claims (ACM). In short: many marketers lean on soft terminology and selective data because it sells. Clear standards are catching up—but not everywhere.
5) So… is leather humane?
If humane means strictly animal-free, then vegan leather matches that definition. If humane means best for animals, people, and the planet over time, the picture shifts:
-By-product logic: hides come from meat, not the other way around—using them avoids waste (FAO).
-Longevity & repair: leather’s lifespan and repairability mean fewer replacements and less landfill.
-End-of-life: vegetable-tanned (chrome-free) leathers biodegrade faster than synthetics (SpringerOpen).
-Better production choices: look for tanneries audited by the Leather Working Group (LWG) on water, chemicals, energy, and traceability.
We don’t promote exotic hides. Our focus is full-grain, vegetable-tanned cowhide, designed for repair and long use.
-Look for repair services, replaceable hardware, and care guidance.
If you prefer vegan options:
-Ask what percentage is PU or PVC (many “plant-based” options still use plastics).
-Check warranty and repairability (cracking/peeling usually can’t be repaired).
-Avoid PVC where possible due to additives and microparticle concerns (ECHA).
7) Where I stand as a maker
I’m not against all vegan or next-gen materials. We should keep innovating—and I hope we’ll one day have truly durable, beautiful, plastic-free alternatives with green origins. What I oppose is concept-swapping: selling petro-plastics as morally superior by stuffing them with humane and eco language that the full evidence doesn’t support. Until then, the most humane habit is simple: buy fewer, better things—and repair them.
